Fitting the CMST A-style carbon-fibre kit to a Xiaomi SU7 is an intermediate-level job that takes a well-equipped DIYer the better part of a full day. The kit is a bolt-on and adhesive carbon-fibre aero package, attaching through factory mounting points, automotive-grade double-sided tape and a few panel clips and screws. The biggest factor in a clean result is patience during dry-fitting and surface prep, not raw mechanical skill — anyone comfortable removing trim and setting even gaps can tackle it.
This guide covers the full sequence for the Xiaomi SU7 (the Chinese electric performance sedan launched in 2024), front to rear. Because the SU7 is an EV with no exhaust to work around, the rear centres on the lower lip and diffuser plus the carbon wing. Read the whole guide first, lay your parts out, and check each panel against the car before any tape backing comes off.
- Vehicle: Xiaomi SU7 (2024 onwards, electric sedan)
- Fitment: CMST A-style dry carbon-fibre aero kit — front lip, canards/vent trims, side skirts, rear lip/diffuser, fender and mirror trims, carbon rear wing
- Difficulty: Intermediate — 3/5
- Time estimate: Most of a full day for the complete kit (roughly 4–7 hours depending on experience and the weather)
- Tools in brief: Trim pry tools, clip removers, socket/torque set, isopropyl wipes, masking tape, heat gun, feeler gauge, microfibre cloths, gloves, a helper
Tools you'll need
Gather everything before you begin so you are not hunting for a tool with a tacky tape strip exposed. A few items are non-negotiable for a tidy finish on carbon.
- Trim removal tools and plastic panel pry tools (avoid metal screwdrivers against paint or carbon)
- Plastic clip removers and a small box to keep removed OEM clips and fasteners
- Socket set plus a torque wrench or torque-limiting driver for any bolt-on sections
- Masking tape (low-tack) for marking alignment lines and protecting paint edges
- Isopropyl alcohol or proper adhesion-promoter wipes for surface prep
- Heat gun (or a strong hairdryer) to warm VHB-type tape in cooler weather
- Measuring tape and a feeler gauge for checking and setting even panel gaps
- Microfibre cloths, clean gloves to keep finger oils off bonding surfaces
- A second person for larger panels — the bonnet, side skirts and rear wing are far easier and safer with a helper
Difficulty & time
Rate this an intermediate 3/5. No single step is hard, but there are many, and the adhesive work is unforgiving once tape touches paint. Budget roughly: front lip and canards 60–90 minutes; fender and mirror trims 30–45 minutes; side skirts 45–60 minutes per side; rear lip and diffuser 60–90 minutes; bonnet (if included) 45–60 minutes with a helper; rear wing 60–90 minutes. First-timers should plan for the upper end of each range.
Step-by-step installation
Follow the sequence in order — front, fenders, sides, rear, bonnet, then wing. For every panel the same four-part rhythm applies: dry-fit first, prep and clean the surface, align and set even gaps, then fix and final-check.
Step 1 — Front bumper lip and canards
Start at the front. Wash and dry the lower bumper, then dry-fit the carbon front lip on the factory mounting tabs and supplied clips so you can see how it sits, and mark the position with masking tape on both sides. Wipe every bonding surface with isopropyl and let it flash off. For VHB tape, warm both surfaces with the heat gun in cool weather, peel the backing, set the lip from the centre outwards and apply firm, even pressure along its length. Fit the canards and air-vent trims the same way, checking they sit symmetrically. Snug any screws firm, not forced, to avoid stressing the carbon.
Step 2 — Fenders, arches and fender trims
Move to the fender and mirror trims. Clean each mounting area thoroughly — front fender edges collect road film that ruins adhesion. Dry-fit each trim, confirm the curve follows the bodyline, and mark it. Prep with isopropyl, warm the tape if needed, then press the trim home along its length. Mirror caps usually clip over the OEM housing; ease them on evenly so the clips seat fully. Step back and check both sides match.
Step 3 — Side skirts
Side skirts run the length of the car and reward careful alignment. Dry-fit each skirt against the sill, supporting it along its length, and check the gap to the door bottoms is even front to rear with your feeler gauge. Many skirts use both tape and screws into the factory sill points, so locate those first. Clean and prep the full sill, warm the tape, then set the skirt and fix the screws snug only. Repeat on the opposite side and compare ride height and gaps left to right before the adhesive cures.
Step 4 — Rear bumper, lip and diffuser
With no exhaust to clear, the rear work is straightforward: the lower rear lip and the carbon diffuser. Dry-fit both, checking the diffuser sits central and level and any fins are square to the ground. Mark, clean and prep, then fix with tape and the supplied clips or screws. Keep clearance around the rear sensors and parking aids — do not let a panel or fixing block a sensor face. Confirm the bootlid still opens and closes freely.
Step 5 — Bonnet (if your kit includes one)
If your A-style package includes a carbon bonnet, treat it as a two-person job. Dry-fit it onto the hinges, adjust the rubber stops and latch so the panel closes flush, and set even gaps to the front guards and headlights. Tighten the hinge bolts only once alignment is right — snug to spec, not over-torqued — then open and close it several times to confirm the latch engages cleanly.
Step 6 — Carbon rear wing
The SU7 leaves the factory with an electrically-deploying rear spoiler, so plan the wing carefully. A fixed carbon wing either replaces that pop-up spoiler or mounts to the bootlid; decide which your kit suits before drilling or bonding. If it mounts to the bootlid, dry-fit the uprights, mark the positions precisely so the wing is centred and square, and check it clears the deploying spoiler's travel if that mechanism is retained. Prep the contact areas, fix per the supplied method, snug all hardware evenly, and test the auto-spoiler (if kept) to confirm nothing fouls.
Fitment cautions
A few rules separate a factory-tidy install from a disappointing one. Treat them as mandatory, not optional.
- Always dry-fit before removing any tape backing. Once VHB-type tape touches paint it does not reposition cleanly.
- Check panel gaps and symmetry left to right. Use a feeler gauge and step back often — the eye misses a creeping gap.
- Surface must be clean, dry and above roughly 15°C for tape to bond properly. In cooler Australian weather, warm both surfaces with a heat gun and apply firm pressure.
- Bolt-on parts: snug, not overtightened. Carbon can crack under excess clamping load, so use a torque-limiting driver and stop at firm.
- Paint-matching only applies to any FRP or painted parts. Most of this kit is exposed carbon weave sealed with a UV clearcoat — it needs no paint, just keep it clean and waxed to protect the lacquer.
- Allow adhesive to cure 24–48 hours before washing or exposing the car to high-pressure water.
- Mind the SU7's auto rear spoiler and sensors. Keep clearances so the deploying spoiler moves freely and parking sensors stay unobstructed.
- EV and cold-weather note: there is no exhaust heat to worry about, but cold air weakens tape adhesion — warm the surfaces before fitting adhesive aero in the cold.
Book professional fitment in Australia
If this is your first carbon aero install, or you simply want the result protected, book a professional fitment. A workshop will dry-fit, set ADR-sensible alignment and bond the panels with the right surface prep and curing conditions — cheap insurance against a cracked lip or a crooked wing on an expensive set of dry carbon. AME Motorsport can point you to the right parts and fitment help: browse the full CMST carbon-fibre collection, the dedicated CMST carbon-fibre body kit range, and our wider carbon-fibre body kit catalogue to confirm the right A-style components for your SU7 before you book.
Frequently asked questions
Can I install the CMST A-style kit myself?
Yes, a confident DIYer can fit this kit at home in roughly a full day. It is an intermediate 3/5 job needing careful trim removal, patient dry-fitting and clean surface prep rather than advanced mechanics. Use a helper for the bonnet and rear wing, and never remove tape backing until you have dry-fitted and marked each panel.
Is tape or bolt-on more durable for carbon aero?
Both are durable when done correctly, and many panels use both. Automotive VHB-type tape bonds permanently once cured on a clean, dry, warm surface and holds most lips and trims, while bolted sections add security for skirts and the wing. The usual failure point is poor surface prep or fitting tape in the cold, not the method itself.
Does the kit affect the SU7's auto rear wing or sensors?
It can if you ignore clearances. A fixed carbon wing either replaces the factory pop-up spoiler or mounts to the bootlid — decide which your kit suits, and if you keep the deploying spoiler, confirm the wing clears its full travel. Keep rear panels and fixings clear of the parking sensors, and test the auto-spoiler and sensors after fitting.
How long before I can wash the car?
Wait 24–48 hours after fitting before washing or pressure-rinsing, as the adhesive needs that time to reach full strength and high-pressure water can lift a freshly bonded edge. After curing, wash normally and wax the carbon clearcoat occasionally to protect the lacquer from UV.
Do I need to paint anything?
Generally no. The A-style kit is exposed dry carbon weave finished with a UV clearcoat, so it arrives ready to fit. Painting only applies if your order includes FRP or painted-finish parts; standard carbon panels just need to be kept clean and waxed.
Should I get it professionally fitted?
For a first install, or if you want guaranteed alignment and adhesion, professional fitment is the safer choice. A workshop controls temperature and surface prep, sets even gaps and aligns everything sensibly, which protects an expensive carbon kit. Experienced DIYers working in warm, clean conditions can achieve a great result themselves.
