Brakes

Quick Summary

Installing carbon ceramic brakes at home is achievable for experienced mechanics who have the right tools, workspace, and methodical approach. This AME Motorsport guide covers every stage of the process, from workshop setup and tool requirements through rotor removal, hub preparation, carbon ceramic rotor installation, pad fitting, and the critical post-installation bedding procedure. While professional installation is always recommended for those with any uncertainty, Technology for Everyone means providing the knowledge and guidance needed for capable home mechanics to complete this upgrade safely, correctly, and with lasting results.

Before You Begin: Honest Self-Assessment

Carbon ceramic brake installation follows the same fundamental procedure as conventional iron rotor replacement, but the stakes are higher. Carbon ceramic rotors are precision-engineered components with significantly higher value than iron rotors. Damage during installation, whether from dropping, contamination, or incorrect torque, can render a rotor unusable.

You should proceed with DIY installation if:

• You have successfully replaced brake rotors and pads at least twice before on any vehicle
• You own a calibrated torque wrench and understand why torque specifications matter
• You have a clean, organised workspace with adequate lighting
• You are willing to follow every step exactly as documented, without shortcuts
• You are comfortable working under a raised vehicle on jack stands

You should seek professional installation if:

• You have never replaced brake rotors or pads before
• You are unsure about any aspect of brake system work
• Your workspace is a gravel driveway or uneven surface
• You do not own a torque wrench or are unfamiliar with its use
• You feel rushed or pressured to complete the work quickly

There is no shame in professional installation. Brakes are safety-critical, and an incorrectly installed brake system can have catastrophic consequences. The procedures in this guide apply to AME Motorsport applications ranging from the Audi RS6/RS7 C8 to the McLaren 720S/765LT, though always consult the vehicle-specific instructions included with your kit.

For a comprehensive overview of carbon ceramic brake technology: Carbon Ceramic Brakes: The Complete Guide

Required Tools and Equipment

Essential Tools (Non-Negotiable)

• Floor jack: Rated for your vehicle's weight with adequate lift height
• Jack stands: Minimum two, rated for vehicle weight. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack
• Torque wrench: Calibrated, covering the range specified for your vehicle's caliper bolts, rotor bolts, and wheel fasteners. A click-type wrench with Nm markings is recommended
• Socket set: Metric and/or imperial depending on your vehicle. Include both standard and deep sockets
• Combination wrenches: For brake line fittings and caliper slide pins
• Digital caliper: 0.01 mm resolution for verifying new rotor thickness and measuring pad material
• Brake cleaner: Carbon ceramic safe formulation. Verify compatibility before use
• Lint-free cloths: For cleaning rotor surfaces and hub faces. Avoid paper towels, which leave fibres
• Wire brush: For cleaning the hub mounting face of rust, scale, and debris
• Wheel chocks: Placed at the opposite end of the vehicle from the end being lifted
• Nitrile gloves: Keeps skin oils off the rotor surface and protects your hands

Strongly Recommended Tools

• Caliper piston compression tool: The correct type for your caliper (screw-in or push-back). Using pliers or a C-clamp risks cracking the piston
• Brake caliper hanger or bungee cord: For supporting the caliper when disconnected from the bracket. Never let a caliper hang by its brake line
• Anti-seize compound: Ceramic or copper-based, for rotor hat mounting bolts and caliper bracket bolts where specified
• High-temperature anti-squeal compound: For the back of brake pad backing plates. Must be rated for 500 degrees Celsius or higher
• Thread locker: Medium-strength for specific fasteners as specified by the manufacturer
• Dial indicator with magnetic base: For measuring rotor runout after installation

Workshop Requirements

• Level, solid surface: Concrete or hardened floor. Never work on gravel, grass, or soft ground
• Adequate lighting: Overhead shop lights plus a portable inspection light. Shadows hide problems
• Clean environment: Sweep the workspace before beginning. Grit and debris are the enemy of carbon ceramic surfaces
• Parts organisation: Labelled containers or a magnetic tray for hardware. Keep components from each corner of the vehicle separated and labelled

Pre-Installation Preparation

Unboxing and Inspection

When your AME Motorsport carbon ceramic rotors arrive, unbox them carefully on a padded surface.

• Inspect for shipping damage: Check the rotor face, edges, and ventilation channels for any chips, cracks, or surface blemishes. Photograph any findings immediately
• Verify part numbers: Confirm each rotor matches the correct application (left/right, front/rear) for your vehicle
• Compare dimensions: Measure the new rotor thickness with your digital caliper and compare to the specification on the product documentation. This establishes your baseline measurement for future wear tracking
• Handle with clean nitrile gloves: Skin oils can contaminate the rotor surface and interfere with transfer layer establishment during bedding

Vehicle Preparation

Step-by-Step Installation Process

Step 1: Remove the Caliper

Step 2: Remove the Old Rotor

Step 3: Prepare the Hub Face

This step is critically important and is the most common source of problems in brake installations.

Step 4: Install the Carbon Ceramic Rotor

Step 5: Install the Brake Pads

Step 6: Reinstall the Caliper

Step 7: Post-Installation Checks

Before lowering the vehicle:

The Bedding Procedure: Do Not Skip This

Bedding is the controlled process of establishing a pad transfer layer on the new rotor surface. Every carbon ceramic pad compound requires bedding. Skipping it results in poor braking performance, excessive noise, and potential rotor damage.

General bedding procedure (always follow the specific instructions provided with your pad compound):

For detailed bedding guidance: Carbon Ceramic Brake Bedding Procedure

Common Installation Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Contaminating the rotor surface: Touching the braking surface with bare hands deposits oils that interfere with transfer layer formation. Always wear clean nitrile gloves when handling rotors and pads.

Inadequate hub face preparation: This is the most common cause of post-installation runout and pedal pulsation. Clean the hub face thoroughly, inspect it carefully, and do not rush this step.

Using incorrect pad compound: Standard metallic pads will destroy carbon ceramic rotors. Verify the pads are specifically rated for carbon ceramic surfaces before installation.

Reusing worn hardware: Anti-rattle clips, retaining springs, and caliper slide pin boots fatigue over time. New hardware eliminates a common source of post-installation noise and uneven wear.

Skipping the torque wrench: Carbon ceramic rotor hats and caliper mounting points require precise torque values. Over-tightening can distort components. Under-tightening risks fastener loosening. Always use a calibrated torque wrench.

Letting the caliper hang by the brake hose: Even briefly supporting the caliper weight on the brake hose can damage the hose internally, creating a weak point that may fail under pressure later.

For comprehensive installation and ongoing maintenance guidance: Installation and Maintenance Guide

Recommended Brake Pads for Carbon Ceramic Rotors

When upgrading to carbon ceramic rotors, selecting the correct brake pad compound is essential. Standard metallic pads must never be used on carbon ceramic surfaces. AME Motorsport recommends these proven carbon ceramic compatible compounds:

• Pagid RSC Series — European racing heritage, three compounds (RSC1 street, RSC2 endurance, RSC3 sprint) covering every driving scenario
• Barbaro Racing — Italian motorsport lineage with compounds from whisper-quiet C-01 to RS-635 competition
• NetzschRacing — German precision engineering with Street, Race, and Carbon Ceramic Series
• Schaffen ZZ Racing — Asian touring car championship pedigree, validated in extreme heat and humidity

For detailed compound comparisons: Best Brake Pads for Carbon Ceramic Rotors

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does a DIY carbon ceramic brake installation take?

For an experienced home mechanic performing their first carbon ceramic installation, expect approximately 3 to 4 hours for one axle (both sides). This includes careful hub preparation, rotor installation, runout verification, pad fitting, and caliper reassembly. Subsequent installations go faster as you become familiar with the process. Add approximately 1 hour for the bedding procedure. Do not rush. Carbon ceramic components demand patience and precision.

Can I install carbon ceramic rotors on a vehicle that originally came with iron rotors?

Yes, provided you use a conversion kit designed specifically for your vehicle. AME Motorsport conversion kits include rotors, compatible caliper brackets or adaptors, all necessary mounting hardware, and carbon ceramic compatible brake pads. The conversion process follows the same general procedure as a replacement installation but includes the additional step of swapping caliper brackets or fitting adaptor plates. Follow the kit-specific instructions provided with your order.

Do I need any special tools beyond what I would use for a normal brake job?

The fundamental tools are the same. A floor jack, jack stands, socket set, torque wrench, and brake cleaner are the core requirements for any brake job. For carbon ceramic installation specifically, the additions are nitrile gloves (to prevent surface contamination), a digital caliper (for baseline thickness measurement), and ideally a dial indicator (for post-installation runout verification). These are modest additions that significantly improve the quality of the installation.

What should I do if I measure excessive runout after installing the new rotor?

If runout exceeds 0.05 mm, remove the rotor and re-examine the hub face. In the vast majority of cases, excessive runout after a fresh installation is caused by contamination between the hub face and the rotor hat. A single particle of rust, a thin corrosion film, or a small burr on the hub surface is enough to cause measurable runout. Clean the hub face again with a wire brush and brake cleaner, inspect under strong light, reinstall the rotor, and re-measure. If runout persists despite thorough hub preparation, the hub itself may need inspection for damage or wear.

Is it safe to install one axle at a time or should I do all four corners at once?

Installing one axle at a time is perfectly acceptable and is actually the preferred approach for most home mechanics. Complete both sides of one axle (both fronts or both rears) before moving to the other. This ensures balanced braking performance on each axle at all times. If you are converting from iron to carbon ceramic, start with the front axle, perform the bedding procedure, and then return to install the rear axle with a second bedding procedure. Never drive with carbon ceramic on one side of an axle and iron on the other.

What brake fluid should I use when installing new carbon ceramic brakes?

For street use, a high-quality DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 fluid is appropriate. If the existing fluid has been in the system for more than a year, or if you are performing a conversion installation, flush the entire system with fresh fluid as part of the installation process. This eliminates old, moisture-contaminated fluid and ensures the system operates with a known-good baseline. For vehicles that will see track use, consider a racing-specification fluid with a higher dry boiling point.