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Fitting a CMST carbon kit to a Lamborghini Aventador is a bolt-on and bond-on job that reuses the factory mounting points, but on a V12 supercar it is workshop work, not a driveway project. The kit installs in a logical order — front bumper and lip, fenders, bonnet, side skirts, rear lip, then the wing — with most panels secured by the original screws, 3M automotive tape and, where specified, a few beads of structural adhesive. This guide covers tools, difficulty, the step sequence and the fitment cautions that matter on a car like the Aventador.

• Vehicle: Lamborghini Aventador (LP700-era carbon kit)
• Difficulty: advanced — professional fitment strongly recommended
• Estimated time: a full day or more for the complete kit, depending on prep and paint
• Fixing method: factory screws, 3M tape, structural/glass adhesive on specified panels
• Helpers: two or more people for the bonnet, side skirts and rear lip

Tools and materials you will need

Gather a metric socket and torx set (Lamborghini uses torx fasteners widely), trim-removal tools to release clips without marking paint, a heat gun, and isopropyl alcohol or an adhesion promoter for surface prep. You will also want fresh 3M automotive double-sided tape, structural or windscreen-grade adhesive where specified, masking tape for dry-fitting, and abrasive paper to key bonding edges. Panel stands or soft blankets protect carbon pieces, and a hoist makes the rear-lip and underbody work far easier than ramps.

Difficulty and time

This is an advanced install. The Aventador's panels are expensive, the carbon pieces are unforgiving of a poor fit, and several steps need two or more people. A competent panel shop will set aside the better part of a day for the full kit, and longer if pieces are being painted or protected first. The cost of a workshop is small against the cost of a cracked carbon bonnet or a misaligned splitter on a car of this value.

Preparation

Work in a clean, dry, well-lit space at a stable, warm temperature, because adhesive and tape both perform better warm and carbon should not be fitted in the cold. Dry-fit every panel first with masking tape, checking gaps before any adhesive is committed. Where a piece bonds to the car, key the contact edge lightly with abrasive paper, clean it with isopropyl alcohol or adhesion promoter, and let it flash off. Decide on finish first: exposed-carbon pieces are best protected with a coating or film beforehand, and painted pieces should be colour-matched and cured before fitting.

Step sequence

1. Front bumper and lip

Open the bonnet and remove the factory front bumper, then transfer any sensors, brackets and trim — including the original radar and duct hardware — to the CMST bumper. Fit the carbon bumper using the factory screws, then attach the front lip to its lower edge. CMST specifies 3M tape on the mating face plus self-tapping screws into the lip's lower mounting, so the splitter is both bonded and mechanically fixed. Set the lip's height carefully — this is the lowest, most kerb-exposed piece on the car.

2. Front and rear fenders (guards)

With the front bumper, wheels and wheel-arch liners out of the way, remove the factory fenders and fit the carbon fenders using the original screws. The critical detail is the gap between the fender and the bonnet: aim for an even 1–3 mm gap, snug the upper fasteners loosely, confirm alignment, then tighten. Repeat on the other side before refitting the liners and wheels. The rear fender trim panels and vent inserts are prepped the same way — key the lower edge, clean it, apply 3M tape with a few dots of adhesive, then locate them precisely over the factory openings.

3. Bonnet

The bonnet is a two-person (or more) job. Open it, remove the washer jets and hose, then release the factory latch hardware. Transfer the latch, clips, rubber pads and washer jets to the CMST carbon bonnet, and mount it on the original bolts without fully tightening. With one person taking the weight, micro-adjust for even gaps all round — CMST suggests a 2–4 mm target — then tighten. Refit the washer hose and jets, and check the latch engages cleanly and the bonnet sits flush.

4. Side skirts

Side skirts are also best done with two people. Prep the skirt's 3M contact strip with abrasive paper and adhesion promoter, apply fresh tape and a few dots of adhesive, and mark the screw locations. Remove the factory lower-sill screws, peel one end of the tape backing, and offer the skirt up, aligning it before pressing it home. Fix the lower edge with the original screw points, press firmly so the tape keys, and repeat on the other side.

5. Rear lip

Raise the car for access. Remove the factory rear lip and brackets, and transfer the metal mounting plates to the CMST rear lip. Apply 3M tape along the inner bonding edge with a few dots of glass adhesive. Clean the body, dry-fit to confirm position, then peel the tape and press the lip home. With two or more people supporting it, locate the lip into the underbody tray and secure it with the factory screws, keeping the under-tray clip in place.

6. Rear wing

Finish with the wing. Open the engine cover, raise the original spoiler mechanism to its highest position if fitted, and disconnect any wiring on the factory wing, such as the high-mount brake-light lead. Remove the factory wing, transfer the brake light to the CMST wing, and mount it using the original screws. Reconnect the brake-light wiring, test the light, and where the car has a deploying spoiler, check the mechanism operates correctly.

Fitment tips and cautions

A few points make the difference between a clean install and an expensive mistake. Always dry-fit before bonding — carbon panels cannot be repositioned once the tape grips. Keep panel gaps even; the 1–3 mm fender-to-bonnet and 2–4 mm bonnet gaps CMST references are good targets, but the real goal is symmetry side to side. Do not over-tighten fasteners into carbon, which can crack the surface; snug is enough. Give adhesive and tape time to cure before driving, and do not wash the car until the adhesive maker's cure time has passed. Treat the front splitter as a wear item: a front lift and careful approach angles protect it from kerbs.

Professional fitment in Australia

On a car of this value, the sensible path is professional fitment. A workshop experienced with carbon aero will dry-fit, prep and align each panel, paint or protect pieces as needed, and confirm latches, wiring and clearances before the car goes back on the road. AME Motorsport can supply the kit and advise on a specification and finish. Body and aero modifications are also subject to state vehicle-standards rules in Australia, which vary by state.

Browse the range in our Lamborghini Body Kit collection, look at front options under the Lamborghini bumper range and sides at Lamborghini side skirts, and see the wider carbon catalogue at CMST Carbon Fibre Body Kit.

FAQ

Can I install the CMST Aventador kit myself?

It is possible for a very experienced installer, but we strongly recommend professional fitment. The panels are expensive, carbon is unforgiving of a poor fit, and the bonnet, side skirts and rear lip each need two or more people. A workshop also gets the alignment, latch and wiring right, which protects the car's value.

How are the panels attached?

Most pieces use the factory screw points, reinforced with 3M automotive double-sided tape and, on specified panels such as the fenders, rear lip and skirts, a few dots of structural or glass adhesive. The bonnet and wing reuse the original latch, bolts and brake-light hardware, which transfer across from the factory parts.

What panel gaps should I aim for?

Symmetry side to side matters most. As guides, CMST references roughly a 1–3 mm gap between the carbon fenders and the bonnet, and about a 2–4 mm gap around the bonnet itself. Snug fasteners loosely first, confirm alignment, then tighten — and never over-torque into carbon.

How long does the full kit take to fit?

Allow the better part of a day for the complete kit, and longer if pieces are being painted or protected first. A stable, warm temperature helps the tape and adhesive bond, and the car should not be washed until the adhesive maker's cure time has passed.

Is the carbon kit suitable for Australian roads and rules?

The kit is a bolt-on aero package, but a low front splitter needs care on Australian driveways and kerbs, where a front lift or careful approach angles help. Body and aero modifications are also subject to state vehicle-standards rules, which vary by state, so confirm compliance for your specific configuration with your fitter or local regulator before driving.

Planning a carbon build for your Aventador? Explore the pieces in our Lamborghini Body Kit range and talk to the AME Motorsport team about supply and professional fitment.