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Fitting the CMST carbon-fibre kit to a 2019-onward Porsche 911 (992 Carrera) is a bolt-on and bonded job, but two pieces — the bonnet and the rear wing — involve transferring factory hardware, so plan for a careful day's work. The kit covers a front lip with separate corner sections, front air-vent trims, a vented carbon bonnet, side skirts, a rear lip, and a carbon rear wing that re-uses the car's factory wing tail-light. Everything bonds with 3M tape and polyurethane adhesive and locks with self-tapping screws; no original panels are cut. This guide runs through the sequence and the 992-specific cautions.

• Vehicle: Porsche 911 (992 generation, Carrera "Sport")
• Fitment years: 2019-onward (19-ON)
• Material: Dry carbon fibre (prepreg autoclave), gloss or matte clear-coat
• Key pieces: Front lip + corner sections, vent trims, carbon bonnet, side skirts, rear lip, rear wing
• Fixing method: 3M tape + glass adhesive + self-tapping screws; bonnet and wing transfer factory parts
• Difficulty: Intermediate to advanced — bonnet and active-wing work; allow a full day

Tools and materials

• Cordless drill/driver with a Phillips bit and a small twist drill for locating holes
• Fine sandpaper (around 240–320 grit) to key the carbon bonding faces
• Adhesion promoter, panel wipe, and lint-free cloths
• Polyurethane "glass glue" bead adhesive
• A marker pen, masking tape, and feeler gauges or a 3 mm spacer for the bonnet gap
• A trim-removal tool, a vehicle hoist or ramps, and a heat gun for cold-weather tape activation
• A second person — essential for the bonnet and wing

Preparation

Wash the car and bring it into a workshop above about 18 °C, because the 3M acrylic tape only develops its full bond as it warms. Dry-fit every piece before any tape backing comes off, mark each position with the pen, and wipe all mating faces with panel wipe and then adhesion promoter, letting it flash off between coats.

Step 1 — Front lip and corner sections

Fit the corner sections (包角) first. Drill the locating holes in their groove, add glass adhesive, and fix them with self-tapping screws so the front-end alignment is established. Then prepare the main lip: lightly sand its inner upper edge, run 3M tape along it, and add a few dabs of glass adhesive. Clean the bumper face with adhesion promoter, peel one end of the tape, offer the lip to your marks, and have a helper confirm the gaps before peeling the rest. Press firmly along the length, then drive self-tapping screws through the recessed groove on the underside to lock it.

Step 2 — Front air-vent trims

Offer each vent trim to the bumper, confirm the position, and mark it with the pen. Sand the perimeter of the bonding face, clean it, apply 3M tape with a few points of glass adhesive, wipe the bumper with promoter, align to your marks, and press until it grabs. Repeat on the opposite side.

Step 3 — Carbon bonnet

The vented carbon bonnet replaces the factory bonnet, so the original hardware moves across. Work with a second person throughout.

1. Open the bonnet and remove the windscreen-washer jets and the washer hose.
2. With one person supporting each side — and one holding the corner firmly so it does not drop — unbolt and lift the original bonnet away.
3. Transfer the factory bonnet latch/catch and the rubber buffer pads onto the CMST bonnet.
4. Fit the carbon bonnet but do not fully tighten the hinge screws yet. Close it, then micro-adjust the position up, down, left and right until the panel gaps are even.
5. With the position confirmed, have one person slowly lift the bonnet while the other reaches in and tightens the screws. Refit the washer jets and hose.

Gap target: aim for an even 3 mm shut line around the bonnet. If the latch sits proud or the catch will not reach, adjust it up or down; if the bonnet sits too high or too low against the guards, raise or lower the rubber buffer pads.

Step 4 — Side skirts

Sand the inner upper edge of each skirt, run 3M tape along it with glass-adhesive dabs alongside, and clean the sill with adhesion promoter. Peel one end of the tape, hold the skirt level on its marks with a helper, confirm the front and rear alignment, then press the length down and fix the bottom edge with self-tapping screws into the skirt groove. Repeat on the other side.

Step 5 — Rear lip

Prepare the rear lip the same way: sand the inner upper edge, apply 3M tape with glass-adhesive dabs, and clean the bumper with promoter. Peel one end, align to your marks with a helper, press firmly, and drive self-tapping screws through the rear-lip groove to lock it.

Step 6 — Carbon rear wing

The 992's rear wing carries a tail-light, so that light transfers to the CMST wing. The 992 also has an active, electrically deploying wing, so raise it before you start.

1. Raise the factory rear wing, then remove it and detach its tail-light.
2. Transfer the factory wing tail-light into the CMST wing. If the light's mounting clip is too tight in the carbon, grind the hole slightly; if it is too loose, secure it with glass adhesive.
3. Plug the tail-light wire back in and refit the wing using the original screws, but do not tighten fully yet.
4. Lower the wing, micro-adjust the position, then raise it again and tighten the screws.

Active-wing caution: the 992 wing deploys automatically with speed and via the dash switch. After fitting, cycle the wing up and down to confirm it travels freely and the tail-light works before you drive.

Fitment tips and cautions

• Sand, prime, bond. CMST specifies sanding the inner bonding faces on the 992 pieces; keying plus adhesion promoter is what keeps the edges down long-term.
• Warm the work. Below roughly 15 °C the 3M tape will not key. Heat the panel and room or use a heat gun on low.
• Do not fully tighten first. Both the bonnet and the wing are set by closing/lowering, micro-adjusting, then tightening. Snugging the screws too early locks in a crooked gap.
• Mind the active wing and the tail-light. Cycle the wing and test the light after fitting.
• Paint-matching. The kit ships clear-coated; paint pieces off the car for a colour-matched finish.

Frequently asked questions

Does the CMST 992 kit require cutting the original panels?

No. The lip, vent trims, skirts and rear lip bond and screw onto the factory bumpers, while the bonnet and wing replace the originals and re-use their hardware. Nothing is cut; the only drilling is for self-tapping screws and locating holes hidden behind the carbon.

What is the trickiest part of the installation?

The carbon bonnet and the rear wing. The bonnet needs the factory latch and rubber pads transferred and the shut line set to an even 3 mm gap, and the 992's active rear wing carries a tail-light that must be moved across and re-wired. Both are best done with two people and a patient, adjust-then-tighten approach.

Does the carbon bonnet keep the windscreen washers?

Yes. The washer jets and hose are removed to take the original bonnet off and are refitted to the carbon bonnet during installation, so the washers work as standard.

Will the 992 active rear wing still work after fitting?

Yes. The factory wing tail-light and wiring transfer into the CMST carbon wing, and the wing reinstalls on the original mounts. After fitting, cycle the wing up and down to confirm it deploys freely and the tail-light works.

Is this dry carbon or wet-layup carbon?

CMST supplies the 992 pieces in dry carbon fibre — prepreg material cured under heat and pressure in an autoclave. Dry carbon is lighter and holds a crisper weave than hand-laid wet-layup carbon, so the finish stays sharp under the clear coat.

Get your 992 kit fitted in Australia

If the bonnet and active-wing steps are beyond your workshop, AME Motorsport supplies the complete CMST 992 kit and can arrange professional fitment. Browse the CMST body kit range for Porsche, view matching carbon bonnets and rear wings, and contact us to book fitment with shipping across Australia.