ニュース

The CMST carbon-fibre body kit for the 2021–2025 Tesla Model S is a bolt-on and tape-on upgrade that fits the refreshed Model S without cutting or permanent modification. The kit covers the front lip, front air-vent trims, an optional carbon bonnet, side skirts, a rear lip with diffuser, and a boot-lid spoiler. Most pieces are pre-preg dry carbon fibre and mount with 3M VHB acrylic tape, structural adhesive, and a handful of self-tapping screws, so a competent installer working with a second person can fit the full kit in a day.

This guide walks through the sequence we recommend for a clean, panel-gapped result on the Model S, with the clearance and alignment cautions that matter most on a long, heavy sedan.

Quick facts

• Vehicle: Tesla Model S (refresh)
• Fitment years: 2021–2025
• Material options: dry carbon fibre (gloss or matte clear-coat); FRP available on some pieces
• Key pieces: front lip, front air-vent trims, bonnet, side skirts, rear lip/diffuser, boot spoiler
• Fixing method: 3M VHB tape + structural adhesive + self-tapping screws (bolt-on, no cutting)
• Skill level: intermediate to advanced; two people required
• Estimated time: 5–8 hours for the full kit

Before you start: tools and preparation

Gather the kit and lay each piece against the car dry before any tape comes off. A test-fit tells you where the panel sits, how the gaps fall, and whether the holes line up with the factory mounting points. You will need:

• Trim-removal tools and a plastic pry set
• Electric screwdriver or impact driver with the supplied self-tapping screws
• Isopropyl alcohol or the supplied adhesion promoter, plus clean microfibre cloths
• Fine sandpaper (around 240–400 grit) to key the bonding faces
• 3M VHB tape (usually pre-applied) and a tube of automotive structural adhesive
• Masking tape for alignment marks and a heat gun for cold-weather tape tack
• A vehicle hoist or ramps, which makes the lip, skirts and diffuser far easier to reach

Carbon fibre is light but the clear-coat scratches, so keep the pieces on a padded surface and handle them by the edges. Work indoors at room temperature: 3M acrylic tape bonds best between roughly 21°C and 38°C, and a garage that is too cold will leave the adhesive tacky rather than fully cured.

Step 1 — Front lip

Clean the lower front bumper where the lip will sit and remove any wax or road film with the adhesion promoter. Sand the upper bonding edge of the lip lightly, wipe it clean, then run 3M tape along that edge with a few dabs of glass-grade adhesive for security. Peel one end of the tape backing, offer the lip up with a second person holding the opposite side, and confirm the fit is centred and the corners wrap evenly before pulling the rest of the backing. Press firmly along the full length, then drive the supplied self-tapping screws into the underside to lock the lip in place. On the Model S the lip is wide, so check left-to-right symmetry against the wheel openings before the adhesive sets.

Step 2 — Front air-vent trims

The air-vent (canard-style) trims frame the lower corner intakes. Sand the perimeter of each trim's bonding face, clean it, and apply 3M tape with a few points of adhesive. Use the promoter to clean the exact area of the bumper the tape will touch. Peel one end, locate the trim to the corner, confirm the position, then peel the remaining backing and press firmly. Repeat on the opposite side using the same method so both corners sit symmetrically.

Step 3 — Carbon bonnet (if fitted)

The bonnet is the most involved piece and is best left to two people. Open the original bonnet, remove the gas-strut retaining bolts, then unbolt and lift the factory bonnet away. Transfer the original latch, the gas-strut mounts and the rubber bump-stops to the CMST carbon bonnet. Fit the carbon bonnet using the factory bolts or the supplied wood-strip mounts, but leave the bolts loose at first. With one person steadying the bonnet at a comfortable height, the other reaches under to start the latch bolts, then clip the gas strut back on. Close it gently and fine-tune the position so the shut lines match: aim for a panel gap of about 5 mm all round. If a corner sits proud or low, adjust the rubber bump-stops up or down; if the latch will not catch or sits too short, adjust the catch left, right, up or down to meet the striker, then tighten.

Step 4 — Side skirts

Clean and lightly sand the rocker panel along the skirt's bonding line. Run 3M tape along the top inner edge of each skirt with a few dabs of adhesive. Peel one end, lift the skirt into place with a helper, and check that it tucks under the door sill and follows the rocker line front to rear. Confirm the position, peel the rest of the backing and press home, then fix the underside with self-tapping screws. The forward end of each skirt near the front wheel usually needs an extra screw to stop it lifting at speed.

Step 5 — Rear lip and diffuser

At the rear, remove the original lower bumper trim or under-tray so the new diffuser can seat correctly. Offer up the rear lip and clip it to the original bumper, fixing it with self-tapping screws so it sits tight with no visible seam. The diffuser mounts to the rear under-tray: many fitments use 6 mm bolts at the outer holes (which you pre-drill) and self-tapping screws through the centre. Route any reverse-light or fog-light wiring through the diffuser channel before final fixing, and reconnect to the factory loom, observing the marked positive and negative leads. Bond the carbon corner trims to the bumper with tape and adhesive, sanding and cleaning the bonding faces first.

Step 6 — Boot-lid spoiler

Sand the spoiler's bonding faces, wipe them clean, and apply 3M tape around the contact area with a few points of adhesive. Clean the boot-lid where the spoiler will sit with the promoter. With a helper holding one side, peel one end of the backing, align the spoiler to the boot lip, confirm the position, then peel the remainder and press firmly along the whole footprint. Hold it under pressure for a minute so the tape grabs.

Fitment tips and cautions

• Dry-fit everything first. Tape bonds permanently; you only get one chance to place a panel.
• Mind ground clearance. The Model S sits low, and the front lip and diffuser add overhang. Lower air-suspension cars should approach steep driveways and speed humps at an angle.
• Temperature matters. Bond at room temperature and warm cold tape gently with a heat gun so it tacks properly.
• Paint-match vs raw carbon. The carbon pieces ship clear-coated; if you prefer body-colour, have a panel shop respray before fitting.
• Re-check after a week. Acrylic tape reaches full strength over several days, so re-inspect the lip and skirts after the first drive.

FAQ

Does the CMST Model S kit require cutting or drilling the body?

No cutting. The kit is bolt-on and tape-on: pieces fix with 3M VHB tape, structural adhesive and self-tapping screws into the underside of existing panels. The only drilling is a few pilot holes for the diffuser bolts, none of it visible.

Is the kit dry carbon fibre or FRP?

The headline pieces are pre-preg dry carbon fibre with a clear-coat finish. FRP (fibreglass-reinforced plastic) is offered on some pieces as a lower-cost option that paints well but is heavier and has no exposed weave. Confirm the material per piece when ordering.

Can I install it myself at home?

A confident DIY installer can fit the lip, vents, skirts and spoiler with basic tools and a second pair of hands. The carbon bonnet is the hardest part because it must be aligned to a 5 mm shut line, and many owners prefer professional fitment for that piece alone.

Will the body kit affect Autopilot sensors or ground clearance?

The kit mounts to body panels and does not cover the forward camera, radar housings or ultrasonic zones, so it does not interfere with the driver-assist suite. It does lower the effective front and rear overhang, so take care on steep entries and kerbs.

How long does the full installation take?

Plan on five to eight hours for the complete kit with two people, plus curing time before washing or driving in the rain. Splitting it across two sessions — exterior tape-on pieces first, then the bonnet — keeps the work unhurried.

Professional fitment in Australia

If you would rather have the kit fitted and paint-matched correctly the first time, AME Motorsport can help. Browse the full CMST body kit range for Tesla, see the matching CMST front lip for Tesla and CMST diffuser for Tesla options, or enquire about installation through our CMST body kit collection. Our team can advise on dry carbon versus FRP and arrange professional fitment so your Model S leaves looking factory-finished.